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Adventure Summary

Join us for an amazing fortnight aboard the Amelie Rose as we visit the Douarnenez Festival 2022. We’ll be heading south across the channel and onward down the Chenal du Four and through the awesome Tas de Pois to Douarnenez for the 2022 edition of their biennial “Fetes Maritimes”. With hundreds of traditional boats of every size and shape and showcasing every kind of music from shanties to folk rock it’s an experience not to be missed. Bands and performers stroll the streets which are lined with a profusion of stalls selling eveything from pirate hats to freshly smoked kippers.

Amelie Rose sailing towards Douarnenez in 2012

Douarnenez is the birthplace of the Breton traditional boat festivals that we love so much. The home of Chasse-Maree (the French “Classic Boat” Magazine), Douarnenez is a lovely Breton harbour town and the Temp Fete Festival completely takes it over. Temps Fete is the longest running and in many ways one of the best of the Breton traditional boat Festivals, and one where the boats are very much at the heart of proceedings. It’s not just sitting there being admired however – our hosts love their classic boats but they love to see them sailed even more so.

“Why are the French so good at festivals?” read the skipper’s thoughts here… 

To attend as a spectator would be exciting enough, but to attend as boat crew brings a whole new element to this festival adventure. Amelie Rose will be right there in the heart of the action and so will you. We’ll be taking part in racing and parades and getting out to the Baie de Douarnenez to sail about admiring the fleet and being admired in turn. There’s great camaraderie amongst the crews whilst tied up to the shore too – both in the harbour with the other boats – and out and about in the Festival, or in the many bars and restaurants that surround the quays.

Amelie Rose moored up at Temps Fete Douarnenez back in 2012

Sailing the boats is a major feature of Temps Fete Douarnenez. There are races, there are sculling competitions, there are boat-handling events (think agility trials for boats under sail) and rarely a moment goes by when there isn’t something happening to watch or to take part in. Though much smaller and homelier than the Brest Maritime Festival, Douarnenez Festival refuses to be outdone when it comes to the entertainment, and especially the craziness of the closing night.

Read 10 Things I LOVE about the Brest & Douarnenez Festival “Double-Bill” by Nic Beck.

In the past we have seen giant puppet seagulls doing something inexplicable with inflatable blob men in RIBs, there have been naval engagements with cannon, and there’s even been a man playing a squeeze box whilst suspended from a crane – it’s total madness but always a delight. And then of course there are fireworks. Sometimes these are a little close for comfort (at the last edition we had to stand by with buckets to douse falling shrapnel) but always they are fabulous to watch, though there is often a touch of sadness for this signals that our festival odyssey is drawing to an end.

Watch the Official Temps Fete Douarnenez Trailer Video here…

Waking the next morning is always a sobering time as ashore the Festival clear up gets underway and aboard we prepare to be underway ourselves bound for the Chenal once more. If we are lucky enough with the weather stopping at Ushant before crossing back to blighty and journey’s end in Falmouth. This is quite simply the best adventure to grace our schedules in 2022. It’s a “not to be missed” bucket list requirement for anyone who loves traditional boats and classic sailing.

Agnes chasing Amelie Rose at the festival in 2016

Itinerary

You’ll be joining us in Falmouth on the Saturday night, where you can enjoy a meal with us and meet the other guest crew. With food and introductions complete you can find yourself a bunk, stow your gear and have a look around the boat. Before we head to our beds we’ll have a chat about plans for the following day and the incredible adventure ahead.

The exact route will depend on weather and tides but we’ll probably aim to start by heading south from Falmouth to Roscoff or l’Aber Wrac’h and then on down the Chenal du Four, with possible stops at Ile Molene or Camaret enroute to Douarnenz and, with a fair wind, passing through the spectacular granite “Needles” of the Tas de Pois on the way. We’ll be aiming to arrive in Douarnenez on Thursday where we’ll enjoy the usual Breton festival chaos of finding our berth whilst dodging several hundred other boats with the same aim!

From Douarnenez we’ll head back up the Chenal du Four – hoping for a stop-over on Ushant – the most north-westerly part of France – before crossing back to Cornwall and (probably) spending our last night anchored in the Helford River.

We’ll be back in Falmouth by late morning on the final Saturday, giving you plenty of time to extract yourself from Cornwall!

Find out more about sailing aboard Amelie Rose by clicking the link or her picture below.

Amelie Rose in Roscoff on the way to the Brest Douarnenez in 2016

Want to find out more about what it’s like to attend the Douarnenez (and Brest) festival(s)
aboard the Amelie Rose?

Read John Huber’s account of our 2012 Adventure.

Read Nick Beetham’s story of his adventure to the 2016 festivals.

Visit Douarnenez Temps Fete site here.